Owners
info & General Maintenance Instructions The brass and copper finish on some of
my designs need treatment only as is your preference.
I do not recommend polishing or coating since the metals patina
naturally to beautiful dark blue-green (copper) and reddish (brass) hues, and
the patina, or verdigris, creates a natural protective layer for the metal.
Some people do opt to lacquer or verathane, however, which process does
protect and show off the natural fire tones in the metal, but I must warn them
that this treatment must be repeated over time since the finish may yellow and
peel. Refer to a hardware or
marine supply store. The stainless
metal may bleed impurities, but being stainless, its nature is to be resistant
to the elements. The coloration on most of the pieces is
copper enameling. The coloring by this process should
stay overtime, just as the old automobile emblems from the 1920's are still
colorful and lustrous. Occasionally,
however, some chipping may occur, this is natural on large and flat surfaces
and especially when I have mixed a lot of different types of enameling
together (transparencies over opaques, color over solder lines, etc.). It is
part of the price of putting a heavy but beautiful and resilient color on for
the out of doors. But the chipping should not be continuous nor extensive.
This would only happen if the piece has experienced shock or damage
such as a falling tree limb, etc. Sometimes
I use paint, and am using increasingly durable processes, but it must be said
that any paint will eventually fade and/or peel and so please ask me about
specific maintenance instructions for the painted pieces if you have purchased
one of these. The bearings are stainless,
encapsulated and internally lubricated so they do not require oiling per se.
Occasionally, however, pollen, fine dust, acid rain, and certain types of electrolytic sea fogs
can create problems. The
particulate can compromise the seal, and the chemicals can compromise the
integrity of the stainless. Should
the performance of the bearings seem to lessen over time, and any of the above
trouble makers be present, there are a number of things that can be done.
A quick two step operation that seems to trouble shoot the majority of
the problems is as follows. Find a
soft old tooth brush, W-D 40, and white lithium grease. Gently clean the
coin-like silver surface of the bearings with the toothbrush and W-D 40.
Allow to dry. You should
witness improved movement immediately. Follow
up this application within a week with a saturation of the white lithium
grease. This is very important.
The W-D 40 can dry out the bearing, and if you do not follow up with
this treatment of lithium, damage due to internal and external abrasion can
result. Marine store and inline skate dealers also have numerous products. But
if nothing works, I will be happy to provide you with replacement bearings at
cost plus shipping. Any kind of
functional problems occurring within a year of purchase of the piece I will
cover, provided that they are not the result of damage due to shock to the
piece due to striking, falling, mistreatment, and mishandling in a fashion not
recommended by me. Also, if you
disassemble the piece, I cannot be liable.
I am, however, always willing to try to work with you to fix or help
you to fix the unexpected problems that occur (for example, damage due to
flying projectiles such as footballs etc.). Post Office Box 702 Ross, Ca. 94957 tel & fax (415)456-5870
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